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The Alpine Style First Ascent Of The South West Face

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Shishapangma: The alpine-style first ascent of the South-West Face

by Doug Scott

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Language	:	English
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Print length	:	342 pages

The South West Face of the Eiger is one of the most iconic and challenging mountains in the Alps. It is a sheer, 1,800-meter (5,900-foot) wall of rock and ice that has claimed the lives of many climbers.

In 1938, a team of four German climbers made the first ascent of the South West Face in alpine style. This means that they climbed the face without using fixed ropes or other artificial aids. It was a remarkable achievement that set a new standard for mountaineering.

The story of the first ascent of the South West Face is told in the book The Alpine Style First Ascent Of The South West Face by Karl Herrligkoffer. The book is a classic of mountaineering literature and is still widely read today.

The Climbers

The four climbers who made the first ascent of the South West Face were:

Anderl Heckmair
Ludwig Vörg
Heinrich Harrer
Fritz Kasparek

Heckmair was the leader of the team. He was a skilled climber and a gifted tactician. Vörg was the strongest climber on the team. He was known for his ability to climb difficult pitches of rock and ice.

Harrer was the team's photographer. He was also a skilled climber and a talented writer. His book Seven Years in Tibet is a classic of travel literature.

Kasparek was the team's porter. He was a young and inexperienced climber, but he was strong and willing to do whatever it took to help the team.

The Climb

The team began their ascent of the South West Face on July 21, 1938. They climbed quickly and efficiently, making good progress up the face. However, the weather soon turned bad and the climbers were forced to bivouac on a narrow ledge.

The next day, the weather improved and the climbers continued their ascent. They reached the summit of the Eiger on July 24, 1938, after four days of climbing.

The first ascent of the South West Face was a major achievement in mountaineering. It showed that it was possible to climb the most difficult mountains in the Alps in alpine style. The climb also helped to establish the reputation of the German climbers as some of the best in the world.

The Legacy

The first ascent of the South West Face has had a lasting legacy in mountaineering. It set a new standard for alpine climbing and inspired many other climbers to attempt the face.

The South West Face is still one of the most popular and challenging climbs in the Alps. Every year, hundreds of climbers attempt to climb the face. However, only a few succeed.

The first ascent of the South West Face is a story of courage, determination, and skill. It is a story that continues to inspire climbers today.

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The Alpine Style First Ascent Of The South West Face is a classic of mountaineering literature. It is a must-read for anyone interested in the history of climbing or the Eiger.

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The South West Face Of The Eiger Shishapangma: The Alpine Style First Ascent Of The South West Face